Metéora

Metéora

The name Metéora comes from the Greek work meteorizome, meaning "to hang in mid-air", and the monasteries seem to do just that, perched on a scattering of strangely shaped pinnacles that rise out of the Peneus valley just to the north of Kalambáka. Looming between the Pindos range and the Thessalian plain, the rocks remain an enigma. Some geologists say a prehistoric lake covered the area 30 million years ago and swept away the soil and softer stone as it forced its way to the sea. Others believe the Peneus river slowly carved out the towering pillars, now eroded by wind and rain, that rise to 300 m (984 ft) above the plain.

The natural sandstone towers of Metéora were first used as a religious retreat when a hermit named Barnabas occupied a cave there in 985 CE. Others joined him and also made their homes in the caves that score many of the rocks. In 1336, they were joined by the monk Athanásios from Mount Athos who founded the monastery of Megálo Metéoro on one of the thousand or so pinnacles. Twenty-three monasteries followed by the time of the Ottoman reign of Süleyman the Magnificent (1520-66). However, due largely to their precarious location, many had fallen into ruin by the end of the 18th century. Until the 1920s, the only way to get to most of the monasteries was by being hauled up in a net drawn by rope and windlass, or by equally perilous retractable ladders. A much quoted story relates how an abbot, when asked how often the ropes were changed, replied "when they break." In the 1920s on the orders of the Bishop of Trikala, stairs were carved to make the remaining six monasteries more accessible. Today the ropes are used only for hauling supplies and building materials.

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Jeff and four of the monasteries in Metéora as seen from the east. At his feet is the Monastery of Roussánou. Behind Roussánou is the Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapaphsas. In the upper right is the Monastery of Varlaám. The Megálo Metéoro is just slightly above Jeff's left shoulder. The town of Kastraki is also visible to the left.	The pinnacles of Metéora; a chaotic confusion of spikes, cone and cliffs, beaten into bizarre and otherworldly shapes 30 million years ago.	The soaring grey rocks located across the road from the monastery of Roussánou.

View of four of the monasteries in Metéora. On the left is the Monastery of Roussánou. Just to the right of the center is the Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapaphsas. In the upper right is the Monastery of Varlaám with the Megálo Metéoro just slightly above it and to the left. The town of Kastraki is also visible.	The monasteries of Varlaám (right) & Megálo Metéoro (center) as seen from the road.	The Megálo Metéoro, or the Great Meteoro, was built on the largest rock of Metéora. It was also the first and, at 623 m (2,044 ft) above sea level and 415 m (1,361 ft) above the valley, highest monastery to be founded. The first dweller on the rock was Athanásios who in 1380 built the chapel which was restored and added to by the monks Iosaph in 1387-88 and Simeon in 1541-42. By the entrance is a cave in which Athanásios first lived. His body is buried in the main church. Apart from the main church, there are three other chapels which were built at different times.

The rope net hoist of the Great Meteoro. Until 1923, access to the monastery was by successive rope ladders and this rope net hoist.	The small passage and steps hewn into the rock used to climb to the Great Meteoro today. The monastery had extensive privileges and held jurisdiction over the others for centuries; an 18th century engraving in its museum depicts it towering above the rest. The Monastery of Varlaám is also visible in the background.	The Monastery of Varlaám as seen from the Great Meteoro. I'm wearing the "highly fashionable" attire that I was given upon entering the monastery. Women must wear a skirt (not pants) to the knee, men must wear long pants and tuck up long hair and both sexes must cover their shoulders.

The Monastery of Varlaám. The first dweller on the rock is thought to have been a monk named Varlaám who in 1350 built the small chapel of the Three Hierarchs and some cells. Almost 200 years later in 1518, the brothers Nectarius and Theophanis, who came from a noble family in Ioánnina, constructed a new chapel on the ruins of the former one and later those of All Saints and John the Baptist.	The Monastery of Varlaám. In 1922, 195 stairs were hewn in the rock for safety and convenience. A rope net is also used, but only for provisions.	The Monastery of Varlaám, atop a ravine, as seen from the road.

The Monastery of Varlaám is the second largest monastery in Metéora.	The Monastery of Saint Stephen. According to an inscription at one time on the lintel, the rock was inhabited before 1200 CE and was the hermitage of Jeremiah.	The Monastery of Saint Stephen contains two chapels. The old chapel of Agios Stephanos was built in 1350. The new chapel of Agios Haralambos was built by the monks Theophanis and Ambrosios in 1798. The monastery is linked to the opposite hill by a permanent bridge that is eight meters long. At one time the bridge was moveable for purposes of defense.

The Monastery of Roussánou, perched precariously on the very tip of a narrow spire of rock, is the most spectacularly located of all the monasteries. It was probably named after the first hermit to live on its rock. Unfortunately there are no historical records of its distant past, but it is likely that it was founded in 1380 by the monks Nicodemus and Benedict. In 1545, the monks Maximus and Ioasaph from Ioánnina restored and expanded it.	The Monastery of Roussánou (center) and the Monastery of Varlaám (left) as seen from the south.	The Monastery of Roussánou as seen from the east. Until 1897 access was by rope ladder but later two wooden bridges were added. A permanent installation erected in 1930 now enables visitors to climb safely to the top.

The Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapaphsas was built in the latter part of the 15th century, probably on the ruins of an older monastery.	The Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapaphsas. The narrow and limited surface of the rock obliged the monastery's proprietors to build upward. On the first floor are the chapel and the refectory. On the second floor are the cells.	The Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapaphsas, impossibly crammed atop a narrow rock, as seen from the road.

The Monastery of the Holy Trinity was founded between 1458 and 1476 by Dometius, who was probably the first ascetic to take up residence on the rock. James Bond fans will recognize this monastery from the movie, For Your Eyes Only.	The Monastery of the Holy Trinity. In 1888, a path was carved out of the rock. It was completed in 1925 with the addition of 140 steps which allow visitors to reach the monastery with a minimum of risk.	The Monastery of the Holy Trinity. In the old days, the only access was by rope ladder as in the other monasteries.